The expected rain arrived with a little snow and we woke up to low cloud and more rain. The decision of our guide Santosh (proper spelling) was to delay our departure until lunchtime so after breakfast we went back to bed. At midday the weather had improved a little, resulting in some discussion between ourselves, Santosh and the porters to agree whether we would leave or not. We decided to go after lunch. An initial steep climb out of the valley and then we were heading north again through scenery which reminded me more of Scotland, gently rising through Phangga before a steep and tricky (for me) ledge path with steps and boulders to negotiate before crossing a log bridge over the mountain stream cascading downwards below. My legs were starting to feel weaker as the altitude took effect and I was relieved as the terrain levelled out for the last section to Gokyo – we could just make out the frozen lakes in the cloud. Today was a real slog but glad to have made it so far. In my tired state I was not too receptive to the news we would be starting at 5am next day to do a 3 hour climb up Gokyo Ri some 560m above the village. Bed then at 8.30pm.
A few words here about the baggage porters. We have 2 guys each carrying 2x 10kg (ish) kit bags for us and Santosh, plus their own gear. In total they are probably lugging nearly 30kg along the route. They do this by tying the bags together and attaching to a kind of head band strap which goes across their forehead. I took a photo on Day 6 which should give some pictorial aspect to my description. They walk independently of our group and generally leave and arrive before us do that we have our bags at our room as soon as we reach the lodge. It goes without saying we will be paying them well at the end.