EBC Day 12 Lobuche – EBC – Gorak Shep

Today was the third major milestone on the trek, reaching Everest Base Camp at last, but it was going to a longer day with at least 6 hours trekking above 5000m. We left Lobuche just after 6.30am and the initial height gain was gradual as we approached the path running alongside the Khumbu Glacier which effectively falls off the southern slopes of Everest. The terrain changed and suddenly we were on undulating rocky paths as we headed towards Gorak Shep, the last village before Base Camp. The sun was up and very soon I was so uncomfortably warm I needed to stop and shed my jacket, gloves and woolly hat. I felt strangely lethargic and lacking energy in my legs but plodded on with regular stops before eventually we crested a ridge and there, right in the distance, were the clusters of yellow and orange tents, our first sight of Base Camp. This raised my energy level and after one or two more ups and downs we descended into Gorak Shep for a breakfast stop at the lodge we are staying at tonight. I took the opportunity to rid my bag of some unnecessary weight for the walk to EBC, making sure I had enough water and snacks.

We left Gorak Shep on an initially flat path before gaining and losing height in a similar way to the earlier part of the day. The rest stop had done me good (2 Mars Bars and a Coke) so I felt stronger as we continued to gain height before reaching a narrow flatter ridge path with Base Camp ahead and below to the right. There were a couple spots along here where we had the closest views of the Everest summit yet. We could see the path below leading into the Camp and hear the cheers of trekkers celebrating their achievements. In next to no time we descended off the ridge and were there ourselves, congratulating each other, filming videos, posing for photos and trying to take time to really savour the experience.

Base Camp is really in 2 parts – the “tourist bit” where we arrived, which had a helipad, and the business end of the Camp right at the far end where the climbing expeditions are co-ordinated. The latter is strictly off limits to trekkers.

We had amazing close up views of the glacier and icefall which have to be crossed first by anyone climbing the mountain via the southern route. Sadly we saw no real activity, although it is likely that some climbing teams are out of view higher on the mountain having already summitted or getting ready to take advantage of the good weather and go for the top on the next couple of days.

We stayed for about an hour and then turned round to retrace our steps back to Gorak Shep. At one point on the return hike we were halted by the angry noise of what could only be an avalanche and turned to see the snow sliding down part of the lower Nuptse slope on the opposite side of the glacier. I managed to grab my phone and quickly film a short piece of the action as the white cloud mushroomed downwards. The path was still very busy with trekkers going in both directions along with the the mules and yaks that we had seen so much of in the first few days after leaving Lukla.

We got comfortably back to the lodge as the winds started to pick up and had a late lunch before starting the prep for tomorrow which will be our longest day yet and begins with an early morning climb up Kala Patthar, to see the sunrise over Everest. It will be the highest point on the trek and the final major challenge before we begin the 4 day journey back down to Lukla.

This is the busiest lodge we have stayed at, probably 70 people crammed in so very noisy in the restaurant – may need the earplugs tonight – alarm set for 3.30 am!!