EBC Day 10 Thagnag – Dzhonghla via ChoLa Pass

Today was the day I had been constantly thinking about from the moment I received the trek itinerary back in February and did the obligatory Google research. The crossing of ChoLa pass was going to be high, steep, exposed and dangerous.

We were awake at 3am and left just after 4.15 in the dark after a quick snack and hot tea. It was so peaceful as we ascended gradually up the valley in the freezing cold with our headlamps lighting the way. After about 2 hours we came to the top of a ridge and checked the height. Already we had climbed 450m and the sun was just appearing over the range of mountains in front of us. Spectacular! The downside was that we now had to descend again to cross a valley before the serious climb up to ChoLa pass began. As we progressed the landscape became increasingly boulder strewn and it was apparent that my trekking poles were more of a hindrance than a help. Tomek suggested I pack them away and use my hands where necessary to maintain balance. Sound advice, as before long we had crossed the valley and were starting the steep (understatement) climb up to the top of the pass and we could see the fluttering prayer flags marking our target some 700 feet above. Time to gird the lions and suck it up!

Progress was slow and at times my nerves were severely tested as we scrambled up icy gullies and loose shale, manoeuvring around boulders and narrow ledges. Exerting this much energy combined with the amount of mental effort meant I just had to keep stopping for breath, my heart pounding and remember we are at around 16000 feet! I just struggled onwards not really thinking about anything in particular, just making painstaking advances up the mountain. At one point, around 300 feet from the top, the snow and ice forced Tomek and myself to stop and fit our mini ice spikes onto our boots, while up ahead Jacek and Santosh seemed to be managing perfectly well without. My experience of using these mini crampons amounted to test fittings and a few steps on the concrete floor of the garage at home, so the initial steps on snow were very tentative but soon the benefit was evident. A couple of rest breaks later I looked up and suddenly the prayer flags were almost touching distance away. Resisting the temptation to go quickly I continued to focus on my pace and footwork and then that was it. I was there at 5420m along with a small number of people going in both directions. I filmed a quick video, which I have still been unable to upload, then after trying to savour the moment I sat down and failed miserably to fight back the wave of emotion that hit me. It was the same feeling I had when I reached Lands End 2 years ago, a sheer release of tension, elation, sense of overcoming a challenge. I just had to let it all go and this time it was Jacek instead of Cath who took the hug.

We stayed at the top for a while taking photos – I even got to speak some Mandarin with a couple from Beijing who I offered to take a picture of!! Soon enough and still feeling a little euphoric we set off for the long descent to our destination. Immediately I had to take off the ice spikes to scramble down a steep tricky section before we got to the snow field below which descended alongside the glacier. So the spikes went back on for a while as the slope levelled out and the breathtaking scenery opened out in front – the mountains now starting to become even bigger. The sun was extremely hot and I had to take off some clothing layers for comfort, not forgetting the sun cream to protect face, neck and hands. We came to a point where the snow stopped and the spikes were taken off for the final time – another steep tricky descent through boulders brought us to an area of more level ground where we could see the path snaking off in front us down through moorland and streams towards a destination we could not yet see. We had already been going for over 7 hours and the easy terrain buoyed my spirits further – I am used to walking for a full day and was really enjoying myself for the last hour or so. At last we rounded a small hill and the village came into view, bringing the toughest part of our trek to an end. No WiFi at the lodge so we ventured to a neighbouring tea house to give them our custom and use theirs. Although I’m tired as I write this I decided to not take an afternoon nap, hoping I will get a great sleep tonight. Another shorter day tomorrow where we will rejoin the busier main Base Camp trekking route. Massive respect to our porters today – it’s just incredible what they do.